If you are about to assemble a Mud Hub Greenhouse, we thank you for your support & trust. We know you will not be disappointed with the result of having the freshest food you can hope for, along with the pleasure of growing it yourself.
If you are considering purchasing a kit, we hope this guide will inspire you to move forward. You can do this!
This greenhouse was designed with you in mind: no more needless bending, poor soil, and critters to spoil your gardening experience.
Once assembled. Have fun. See what crops work well in certain areas. You will find multiple microclimates even in this greenhouse. Plant crops you never dreamed of growing, experiment.
To fully enjoy your Mud Hub Greenhouse experience, please follow instructions in the latter part of this guide for windy conditions, especially in New Mexico. It can play havoc with all kinds of structures, permanent and non-permanent. While we have limited control over hurricane forces, prescribed measures can be taken to protect poly film covers and doors.
A new adventure awaits you !
1. Below are the layouts and cut lists for two of our more common greenhouse size requests. See complete cut lists for all other size offerings toward the back of this Assembly Guide
(all cuts are made out of 2 x 12’s)
Note: Kits that are purchased do not include lumber for raised beds, benchtops and supports and door framing. Check material lists for specific size units for purchase at a local lumber outlet.
Separate lumber cut lists will be issued by Mud Hub Greenhouses to owners requiring 2 doors for their units.
Numbers in boxes represent the number of units needed to satisfy an order of particular materials.
Lumber and metal/steel should be cut and/or assembled according to cut sheets supplied in this guide or in separate materials, as provided by Mud Hub Greenhouses.
Materials to be ordered are for units with one doorway. Materials needed for two doorways will be provided on a separate sheet by Mud Hub Greenhouses.
Note: Not all greenhouse kit sizes are shown. Lumber cuts for the widths shown will be accurate for the 10’, 12’, and 24’ wide units. Refer to lumber cut lists and use diagrams below as a guide for unit sizes not shown below. Note that lumber length dimensions that are 9” are always on the bottom layer.
2. Assemble first course of 2 x 12’s following diagram above
3. Use (4) 3” cabinet screws at corners.
4.Be sure to align tops of 2 x 12’s to each other before screwing. Put in top screw first, then, bottom screw. Set corners flush with each other as corners are fastened with screws.
7. Once 1st course is assembled and squared, use levels to level 2 x 12’s to each other. Concrete or wood stakes may be needed to lift and secure 2 x 12’s into position. Use 1 5/8” cabinet screws for this purpose.
5. On end basket pieces, use snips to cut hardware cloth at inside corners of raised beds, so as to lay flat before securing over polyethylene lined beds (See figure 12.)
6. Drive 1 1/4” cabinet screws through hardware cloth into 1st course 2×12 bases every 6”.
Note: 24’ wide units are to have the same hoop spacing as above.
7. Use hammer tacker to fasten cloth to 2 x 12’s. Be sure hardware cloth is as taught as possible.
8. Lay weed barrier over hardware cloth and secure with landscape stables, as needed (See figure 13). (As an option, wait until greenhouse is completed to do this step to avoid tearing the material.)
1. Place tape measure at long side of raised bed inside corner. Mark tops of raised beds as shown below and carry through line to insides of raised beds with the use of a framing square & red or yellow crayon. Align hoop legs to these lines prior to installation of hoop legs to raised beds.
3. Align mark with top of 2×12’s. Push hoop leg into corner and situate so that the bend is perpendicular to the long side of the bed and facing the inside. Plumb the leg bend as in figures 15. Use 2 x 4 and 4’ level so that the leg bend is flush with face of 2 x 4. Eventually, the hoop rafter will fit into the opposing corner legs to complete the full hoop. Drill thru pre-punctured holes in corner hoop legs with 5/16” wood drill bit into 2×12’s while holding hoop legs plumb.
24’ wide units are to have the same hoop spacing as above
2. Mark all hoop legs 22” up from bottom on the outside of hoop legs with felt tip pen (see red line, figure 15). This mark aligns all legs with the top of the raised bed and ensures consistent height of legs.
Note: (3) pieces of hardware cloth need to be cut, (2) long runs and (1) shorter back run. Figure the actual measurements from inside of board to inside of board for the 3 pieces and add a length of each piece for easy attachment to the sides. For a 12’ x 20’ unit, those measurements are 21’ end to end for the long sides and 13’ for the short side. Lap up 6” all the way around for a 10’ x 12’.
4. Fasten with 5/16” x 3.5” carriage bolts, with heads facing out and washers and nuts on the inside of beds. Notice in figure 20 the offset of carriage bolts in corner hoop legs, typical of all four corners. Install interior hoop legs in similar fashion. Be sure the bend in the upper leg is visibly square with the opposite side.
2. Next, insert set screw couplings ‘H’ & ‘I’ (figure 19) onto each corner hoop leg, place at end of hoop leg bend and overlap by half the length of coupling; Make sure screws are pointed down and tighten screws (figure 18).
The lettering of Figure 19, below, is as follows:
A, B, D, F and G are clamps that attach the purlin to the hoop rafter and legs.
The purlins run the length of the greenhouse.
H and I are the set-screw couplings that join the hoop legs to the hoop rafter.
C and E are the strut connectors that show the vertical struts installed. The front struts to the side of the future door can be seen, already installed, in the photo.
3. Next, starting at one end of the hoop rafter, slide purlin end clamp ‘F’, then strut connector ‘E’, then ridge purlin clamp ‘D’, then strut connector ‘C’ and lastly purlin end clamp ‘B’. Remember to bias the bottom part of purlin clamps to the inside (Figure 19). With clamps and connectors in place, attach hoop rafter to legs. Do this to both front and back end hoops. Note: the end rafter purlin clamps are the ones with one bolt and nut/washer set instead of two bolts. The two bolt clamps are for the interior hoop rafters.
The connections and sequence of installing connectors are slightly different for 24’ wide units. There are several reasons for this. First, the hoop profiles come in 5 sections instead of 3. Secondly, tubular sleeves that are provided are used to connect hoop legs to arcs, instead of set screw couplings. See page 25 for 24’ Wide Unit connection diagram.
4. After setting end rafter hoops into set screw couplings ‘H’ & ‘I’, on both sides, tighten screws. Both end rafters are now installed. The two end hoops are now completed. Next are the interior hoops. The purlin clamps that fit the interior hoops can be installed after the rafters are attached to the legs.
Place set screw couplings at hoop leg ends, with screws facing down, and tighten. Place hoop rafters into couplings and tighten screws.
4. Place rear struts along and inside of rear raised bed, 40” in from outside corners for 10 x 12 units and 48” in for 12 x 20 units. See figures 29 & 30. Secure, insert in strut connector and plumb before tightening screws.
5. Drill through 2 x 12 at puncture points and install carriage bolts.
Note: for 24’ wide units refer to figure above” (refer to figure number). Also add, “a & g locations for purlins will be the underside of tangent points where bends are beginning
8. Attach interior purlin clamps on centerline of chalk lines.
9. Starting at ridge, install purlin through clamps and tighten. Each purlin should line up to the outside of the respective end hoops. End hoops may have to be moved slightly to “fit” the length of the purlin. Temporarily secure mid-span sag of purlin to interior hoop with rope or strap – this will snug the purlin to the hoops and make clamps easier to install.
10. Now install the interior ridge clamps remembering to line up sharpie marks on purlins to those on rafters. To use interior purlin clamps remove bolts and fit both pieces over hoop rafters so the legs point down and are bent towards each other. Reinsert bolts and lightly tighten with washers/nut.
11. Attach remaining purlins to rafters at marked locations.
12. Once gently tightened at all rafter-purlin locations, be sure square base of carriage bolts are in square holes of clamps while tightening nuts. Use 5/16” deep socket with a ratchet or a drill. Legs of clamps should draw close together as fasteners are being tightened.
Note: On 10 x12 units there are 20 total clamps; on 12 x 20 units there are 30. (See Figures 31, 32).
For a 10 x 12 unit the space of the aisle is 40”. The vertical 22” 4x4s that were screwed into the 2x12s in the aisle in front are set back from the aisle corner edge by 3.5”. This allows screwing in two vertical 2x4s (actual width is 3.5”) on either side of aisle to frame in the door at the front corners (see figure 40). The length of these boards (the “legs) is 1” longer than the height of the door. For example, if door is 80” high, the legs are 81”
12 x 20 door framing
10 x 12 door framing
Attachment to the door can be as simple as predrilling oversized holes every 6” all around about ½” from the edges or using wood trim to frame in the opening (See figure 35A). Choose whether to leave on all year or remove per seasonal conditions.
1.Install flashing over 2 x 12’s all around, overlapping @ corners. The flashing fits over the top of the 2x12s with the drip edge facing down.
24’ wide units will require mesh cut for the lengths listed below, as follows:
24’: 3- 32’-4” lengths for side-to-side panels
28’: 3- 32’-4” lengths, 1- 4’ x 32’-4” length
32’: 4- 32’-4” lengths
36’: 4- 32’-4” lengths, 1- 4’ x 32’-4”
40’: 5- 32’-4” lengths
2. Fasten with 1” cabinet screws. No pre-drilling necessary. Screw every 24”.
Note: We find it easier to install door and door framing before securing mesh to front panels and last 4’ section to the front of the greenhouse. In this way nobody gets in each other’s way and work continues on the phase after door is installed.
13. Cuts for front and back end panels will be the same for all 24’ wide units, except those requiring two doors. See figures below. Cuts for side to side panels will depend on the length of the units, as follows:
14. 24’ wide units will require mesh cut for the lengths listed below, as follows:
6. Work your way back towards the front, stretching slightly downward on both sides, one worker each side. Place Velcro at every grommet; wrap 4” Velcro strips to the mesh, keeping long side of cloth parallel to purlins. The straighter the edges, the better it looks.
7. After making your way from back to front on both long sides, pull front end corners down and out and attach with Velcro.
8. For 24’ wide units, pull shade cloth over front hoop to top wood cross member, as before, and fasten with cabinet screws thru the grommets and attach to mesh with Velcro ties thru grommets. Be aware that shade cloth will not pull all the way to the back of the unit. Fasten with Velcro ties as far back as possible while stretching shade cloth material.
5.Notch bench top ends opposite mitered corners to butt into / fit around the door framing.
(This step can also be completed at the very end of the project. It maybe easier to seal all lumber at the start before assembling the unit. After cutting boards to proper lengths and sanding, place on a separate set of sawhorses and seal the better sides.)
Trim excess poly film an inch beyond the channel at all sides. The cleaner this trim job is the nicer the greenhouse will “dress out.
For 24’ wide units, follow the diagrams for front and back panel attachments.
about 12”. On one long side rest full length EMT on top of 2x12s with the 6” mark aligning with the outer edge of the 2 x 12’s in front. Have 5 segments of ¾” diameter snap clamps provided at roughly equal increments on the ground from front to back so they are within reach before securing poly film to EMT.
8. Next, at least two people and preferably 3 or 4, (invite your neighbors to help) need to pick up EMT and line it up with bottom of the cover. Tightly roll poly cover around EMT one revolution, evenly, and secure this wrap with the five plastic snap clamps provided.
9. Continue to roll up slowly, carefully and straight so that the film does not wander off to the sides and is even on both edges.
10. Repeat last procedure for the other side.
11. The swivel and crank assembly are provided already connected to bar in the middle. The round appendage to the double swivel end easily fits into the poly film rolling bar and will need to be secured with a self-tapping screw. No coupling is needed besides the ones to connect sections of emt tubing to each other.
12. When cover is fully down the swivels will be positioned as in figures 59 & 60. When cover is fully up the swivels look like figure 61.
Note: The snap clamps will help hold the corners in place during strong winds and keep unit interior temperatures warmer during cold weather periods. Use enough of the snap clamps to ensure there is no opening for wind to get underneath the poly at the corners, possibly rip and effectively remove the cover by making it a sail. As you roll the cover up to the desired height, depending on weather conditions, remove the snap clamps not needed and store where they can be found.
For each strap length there will be two d-rings needed, one for each side of the greenhouse. You may notice that lengths of the ratchet strap is more than needed to tighten of loosen. Do not cut! You will need to connect the d-rings provided about 12” from the ends of each side with the 1 1/2” cabinet screws.
Hook each strap end onto the d-ring on one side. You will notice a separate shorter length that has a hook, as well. First, you will thread the short pieces of strap through the slots of the long pieces by going up under and through the slot and down, over the metal end of the slot. Hook onto the d-ring. Then push in the lever of the ratchet assembly, which will allow you to flatten out the ratchet. Pull the tail of the strap towards you 18-24” or as needed so that the strap roll will not get too big as you tighten.
To tighten, push in the lever. It will allow the mechanism to fold up and enable tightening. The motion is up and down on the handle as you keep pressing the lever. When the strap is sufficiently tight over the poly film, you are done.
When raising and lowering in the future, there is no need to remove the strap. Just press the lever, fatten out the ratchet and release as much of the strap from the roll as needed. Remember to take off or put on the snap clamps to the desired level of poly film before rolling up or down. The snap clamps should be just above the desired level you want covered, at all 4 corners. Remember to always re-tighten the straps. You never know when a gust of wind will come along.
Now that you’re ready to finally fill those raised beds with good soil and start growing, you want to be sure the poly film cover lasts at least 5 -6 years. To ensure that will happen, good practices need to be followed so that you can enjoy fresh vegetables all year for years to come.
Wind forces are unpredictable. That is why it is critically important to keep clamps in place when not rolling up or down, as in Figures 59 and 60 . Before raising or lowering to a desired level, be sure clamps securing the poly film to hoops are not impeding the process, on all sides. Once satisfied with the position of poly film, be sure to secure once again with s-hooks and ties, as well as the snap clamps. Be sure to secure rolled up poly film cover with snap clamps provided.
If weather is warm, an alternative solution might be to raise the poly film to the top on both sides and secure with the ratchet straps. The wind will then blow through the unit and not drive the plastic cover up like a sail.
As mentioned before, store the snap clamps not needed in a safe place where they can be found when needed again. If the choice is to roll down the poly cover in the event of weather coming, use all clamps provided at all four corners to ensure that the cover will be stable.
Remember also to keep your door latched during windy conditions, as it is possible for damage to occur to the door and panel if left open.
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-1”
& 1 length of 3’-7”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 3’-4”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-1”
& 1 length of 3’-7”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 3’-4”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-1”
& 1 length of 3’-7”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 3’-4”
4-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
4-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
8-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
10-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
3-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 3’-9”
& 1 length of 4’-3”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 3 lengths of 4’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
8-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-3’-9” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-4’-0” lengths
3-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0” lengths
3-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9” lengths
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-10 1/2”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 5’-10 1/2”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 6’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
9-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-3’-9” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-4’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9” lengths
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-10 1/2”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 5’-10 1/2”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 6’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
7-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-3’-9” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-4’-0” lengths
3-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0” lengths
3-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9” lengths
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-10 1/2”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 5’-10 1/2”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 6’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
7-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
4-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-3’-9” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-4’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9” lengths
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-10 1/2”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 5’-10 1/2”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 6’-0”
4-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
4-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
9-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
4-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-3’-9” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 2-4’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 8’-0” lengths
1-2 x 12 x 8 cut to 7’-9” lengths
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 9’-10 1/2”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 10’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 5’-10 1/2”
1-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 2 lengths of 6’-0”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 11’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 12 cut to 12’-0”
3-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 16’-0”
1-2 x 12 x 16 cut to 15’-9”
2-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 19’-9”
10-2 x 12 x 20 cut to 20’-0”
